To love, only the Queen: Russian duo in alpine style for new line on Everest East Face

Posted: Feb 08, 2013 06:58 pm EST

(Newsdesk) It's gearing up to a red-hot Everest season reports Elena Laletina from RussianClimb.

In addition to Urubko/Bolotov who will attempt a new route on Everest in alpine style, Gleb Sokolov and Alexander Kirikov will try the exact same thing, on the Kanchung face.

Known to this community for his many outstanding mountaineering feats (K2 winter attempt, new line attempt on Annapurna last fall, K2 west face summit and more) Gleb Sokolov told sponsor NPF BASK his rules:

1. To love - only the Queen
2. To steal - only a Million
3. To climb - only Mount Everest

The hard-core duo was ready last spring but couldn't find the money in time. The delay allowed them to train a lot more during the year and now they are ship-shape to climb Everest East Face, kicking off mid March.

The mountaineers will acclimatize with the 7summits-club on Changse (7550 m) before moving to Kanchung.

Due to its altitude, alpine style climbs on Mount Everest are very rare. New routes on the peak are almost non-existent. Sokolov is well established in both technical and altitude climbing.

Sokolov climbed a bold, new route on Pobeda peak (24,406'/7,439 m) with Vitaliy Gorelik in alpine style and in 2010 a new route on Khan Tengri (7,010m) in rough weather with Alexander Kirikov, also in alpine style.

Sokolov led a Russian group last fall in an attempt for a new line on the highly dangerous Annapurna peak (8,091 m). The climb was aborted when a nearby Uzbek expedition lost its leader and Sokolov's close friend Iljas Tukhvatullin to an avalanche on the normal route.

August 2007 Gleb Sokolov summited the then unclimbed K2 west face in a team of nine that also included Alexey Bolotov, attempting a new line on Everest this spring with Russian born Kazakh climber Denis Urubko.


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The upcoming attempt on Everest East Face.
Image by RussianClimb courtesy, SOURCE
To love - only the Queen - explains Russian elite mountaineer Gleb Sokolov his upcoming climb.
Image by RussianClimb courtesy, SOURCE