Winter Pakistan: US/Hungary going home, Italian/French to 7' on Tuesday, Polish on Broad Peak set for C4

Winter Pakistan: US/Hungary going home, Italian/French to 7' on Tuesday, Polish on Broad Peak set for C4

Posted: Feb 11, 2013 04:49 pm EST

(Newsdesk) A Monday update stated fierce winds (100 km/h) pinned Elisabeth and Daniele at 6000m of altitude. They will continue to 7000 Tuesday. “The weather conditions are bad, the strong wind is causing problems, but we were prepared for it," the team is quoted on Nardi's blog. "We will wait a bit and then try to go up. Our motivation is high, we will give our maximum.” Check in here for next update on 11th February at 8:00pm (Central European Time).

It's over, reported Ian and David yesterday. A wrecked attempt to move to Camp 2 (Ian got AMS) became the decisive factor following prolonged suffering (no generator) at the base of the frigid mountain.

"This mountain has thrown a lot at us," Ian wrote. "Crevasse falls, avalanches, massive snows, sub-zero colds and now a bout of an ailment I thought wouldn’t touch me. I work at altitude, train at altitude and it still got me."

"Our route, due to its length, requires a chain of camps and a fair amount of time to establish. Unfortunately, due to yesterday’s sickness, our timeline has been thrown off to a point where a summit will not be possible. It is with a heavy heart that I must announce that David and I have decided to call an end to the American-Hungarian Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition."

[...] "We would also like to congratulate the Polish team for their bold and noble attempt at the Rupal face this winter, as well as wish the best of luck and weather to Danielle and Elizabeth, who are currently up on the Mummery Rib."

Broad Peak

The recent snow storm demolished parts of the Polish work on the mountain but now all that is fixed. Climbers are in BC with camp 3 ready and holding for a 2-3 day weather window. There's a plan to establish camp 4 at approximately 7,500-7,600 m reported Krzysztof Wielicki.

Laila Peak

After leaving BC on 7th February, the Spaniards have established C2 at 5600m on Laila Peak (6,096 m) reports Raheel Adnan.

Previous news, weekend roundup

News is expected from Joel Wischnewski who announced a three-day solo attempt on the Rupal side before the weekend. Wischnewski was last in camp 2 suffering stomach cramps and holding for weather. His latest post (Feb 6) said he'll be moving for three days, going up the S-E pillar.

After reaching top altitude of 7400 meters recently Tomek and Marek are headed home. Check in for really cool pics on their blogspot.

Direct links to expedition reports:

Nanga Parbat Diamir face:

Nardi's reports

Eli's reports

Ian, David and Zoltan on FB

Hungarian/American team Contact tracker

Nanga Parbat Rupal face:

Joel Wischnewski

Tomek and Marek


Broad Peak:

Polish on FB

Polish winter news

News updates about the winter expeditions

Raheel Adnan's Altitude Pakistan


Previous update


Winter permits, calendar climbs and more: 2004 ExWeb series revisit

Winter 8000ers: Statistics recall

Himalaya winter games: list of expeditions is up

Hunt For Funds And A Tuna Freezer: ExWeb Interview With Team Nanga Parbat
#Mountaineering #topstory

"There is a BIG difference between a winter summit and a winter expedition," commented Simone Moro back in 2006. Just to survive 60 days in winter condition is hard he said. All teams this year shot for a winter expedition and all suffered the cold. Following the Polish now the Hungarian/US team is leaving Nanga Parbat. Still on it: Eli, Nardi and supposedly Joel.
Image by HiMountain 2006
Watching the action from home this season: winter ace Simone Moro getting ready for a new route attempt on Mount Everest this spring with Ueli Steck. File image from 2007.
"I was very scared when the stoves and the gas didn’t work in the first attempt on Mummery ridge."
Image by Daniele Nardi courtesy Daniele Nardi, Elisabeth Revol, SOURCE