(Newsdesk) Adam Bielecki has posted a video of the climb and the summit. See below.
Jan Komorowski, a university friend of Tomasz Kowalski, who attended the Polish Broad Peak press conference two days ago, sent over the following notes:
- all 4 (Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Artur Małek and Tomasz Kowalski) were in very good condition when reaching summit in quite short gaps, but late, just before dark.
- A. Bielecki was 4 hours faster in descending to C4 than A. Malek because, as he was first on the summit, he had more time during daylight to scale the most difficult technical sections near rocky summit on the way to the pass.
- the weather was simply perfect, even for a summer season it would have be fantastic, not to say in winter Karakorum; 48 hours without wind, quite warm during daylight, no clouds. It was the best weather window in winter Karakorum for years, according to statistics of A. Hajzer.
- it was very, very strange and unusual that T. Kowalski lost all his power and ability to move down just after he reached the summit at a good pace. Wielicki and Hajzer had never seen something similar during dozens of their expeditions.
- M. Berbeka also deteriorated heavily, but was able to descent below the pass the next morning after descending all night from the summit over the ridge. Most probably he then fell in one of the big crevasses below the pass or fell hundred meters down the face of Broad Peak.
On March 5th, 2013, Maciej Berbeka (58), Adam Bielecki (29), Artur Małek (33) and Tomasz Kowalski (27) bagged the first Winter Broad Peak (8047m) in the Karakorum, Pakistan. They summited between 17h20 and 18h00 local time.
After the summit Artur Małek and Adam Bielecki went down to Camp 4 at an altitude of 7400m, while Tomasz Kowalski and Maciej Berbeka bivouacked (without a tent) on the pass at 7900m. On March 6th Tomasz Kowalski and Maciej Berbeka were officially declared missing.
Krzysztof Wielicki is the Manager of the Polish 2012-13 Winter Broad Peak.
Shaheen Baig, Amin Ullah and Karim Hayyat are Pakistani climbers/HAPs of the ground support.
Artur Hajzer is the Program Manager of the Polish Himalayan Winter 2010 - 2015 Project.
The Jerzy Kukuczka Polish Mountaineering Support Foundation has started to raise funds for Maciej Berbeka’s family. The money is going to be given to the widow and his sons, including the two who are still financially dependent on their mother (Jasiek is 14 years old and Franek is a 23 year old student). Social fund raising for the relatives of Tomasz Kowalski is not going to be organized – he was a childless bachelor.
Contributions for Maciej Berbeka's family can be made here.
25 years ago Maciej Berbeka attempted Broad Peak (8047m) in Winter for the first time. March 6th, 1988 he reached his highest point then on the mountain, Rocky Summit, already over 8000m on the route, and turned around. He summited Broad Peak in Winter; on March 5th, 2013 and on March 6th, 2013, he is reported missing.
Bob A. Schelfhout Aubertijn gives more detail: "Maciej Berbeka made the summit of Broad Peak, 2013.03.05, and it is his third First Winter Ascent; Manaslu [FWA] on 1984.01.12 with Ryszard Gajewski, Cho Oyu [FWA] on 1985.02.12 with Maciej Pawlikowski, and now Broad Peak [FWA] on 2013.03.05."
"Adam Bielecki made the summit of Broad Peak [today, 2013.03.05] and it is his third Pakistani 8000er within the space of one year, two of which are First Winter Ascents; Gash I [FWA] on 2012.03.09, K2 on 2012.07.31, Broad Peak [FWA] on 2013.03.05."
"It is the twelfth 8000er to be summited in winter, of which this is the tenth that was claimed as a FWA with Polish climbers involved, and the ninth as a FWA exclusively by Polish climbers!"
The 2012-13 Polish Winter Broad Peak expedition (8047 m) is part of the Polish Winter Himalayan Mountaineering 2010 - 2015 program (PHZ).
Broad Peak links:
Polish on FB
Polish winter climbing news
Polish 2012-13 Broad Peak route
Winter expedition of Polish Mountaineering Association to Broad Peak - topo of the route to the summit
Broad Peak weather
Polish support agency: Jasmine Tours Pakistan
6 previous Winter Broad Peak attempts
2012-13 Polish Winter Broad Peak: Details of the climb
Winter Nanga Parbat: Joel Wischnewski search February 21st & 22nd
Winter permits, calendar climbs and more: 2004 ExWeb series revisit
Winter 8000ers: Statistics recall
Himalaya winter games: list of expeditions is up
Best of ExplorersWeb 2012 Awards Winner: Gasherbrum I First Winter Ascent
Mountaineering, the next generation: Artur Hajzer speaks from Lhotse
Mount Everest and Lhotse: summit pushes and speed attempt brewing
Polish debrief of a different K2 season
K2 summit pics and video: Polish climbers on a roll
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