Four teams for Dhaulagiri

Posted: Apr 19, 2013 01:43 pm EDT

(Newsdesk) Pawel Michalski and Simone la Terra finished their acclimatization on a 6000-meter peak near Dhaulagiri. The All-Polish team set Camp 1 and climbed to 6200m. The French team also established Camp 1 and the Spanish (Catalan) team is still on their way to Dhaulagiri.


The Dhaula climbers of the Polish Winter Himalayan Mountaineering 2010-15 Program have spent a week at BC. They participated in a puja ceremony and went out on acclimatization walks. Some of them went for a walk in the direction of the French Pass to look closely at Dhaulagiri and the road above the second camp. The team shares the mess tent and the license with Pawel and Simone. On April 15 the intense sun in the morning caused numerous avalanches but in the afternoon a little more snow fell, they reported.

April 17: Went to C1, "which is relatively long (5.5 km), strewn with cracks and rises almost 1200 meters above the base, i.e. the height of 5800m." They had to be cautious because the crevasses are covered with snow. They work in two teams. In less than 8 hours the first team arrived at the C1 site at 12 noon, with the second team an hour later. C1 is set up under a big serac, which gives them some cover from the wind.

April 18 and 19: After sunrise on the 18th they set out on a reconnaissance in the direction of Camp 2 and reached 6200 m after about 2 hours where it was evident that C2 would be at 6800 m. "Our goal that day was to identify the road and to acclimatization, so we turned back to the previous camp." After another night in the camp, the first climbers went down at about 7 am on April 19. They arrived at BC after 9 o'clock in the morning and took up the classic Base Camp pastimes, reading, sewing and playing games.

Pawel Michalski and Simone la Terra (Polish/Italian team) just finished acclimatization process on nearby over 6000-meter peak. They slept one night at around 6000 meter to prepare for their Dhaula climb. Today or tomorrow (April 19 or 20) they should start climbing Dhaula, reported Jan Komorowski from Poland to ExplorersWeb.

On April 15, Simone reported on FB, "This morning Pawel and I reached 6100 m. It was a very strong climbing, it was stronger than we thought: so much snow and the weather changed frequently. This evening we stopped here. We don't have lots of food so tomorrow we will decide if we can try to climb on the top (6100m) or if we have to come back to BC... The weather will decide for us!"

A team of French climbers, Claire David, Frédéric Heymes and Arnaud Pasquer established Camp 1 yesterday. Their aim is to climb with no supplemental O2 and no sherpas. A forth team member, Claude Labatut, has been flown out from BC by helicopter due to health issues and is in a hospital in Kathmandu. Their home team said they will go down to the base camp to recover before returning to Camp 1 and continue to set up Camp 2.

The Catalan team, Juanjo Garra, Manuael González and Enrique Osiel, has left Kathmandu and are on their way to Dhaulagiri. Garra has done 8x8000er.

Polish Program Team leader: Jerzy Natkański (58)
assistant-leader: Dariusz (Darek) Załuski (53)
Piotr Tomala (48)
Marcn Miotk (40)
Jacek Zyłka-Zebracki (36)
Robert Cholewa (48)
and two female climbers:
Agnieszka Bielecka (34) Adam Bielecki's sister and
Tamara Stys (34)

Paweł Michalski:
2012 - Broad Peak 8051 m - from Pakistan
2008 - 8035 m Gasherbrum II - Normal route
2007 - 8068 m Gasherbrum I - by the Japanese couloir
2006 - Cho Oyu 8201 m - normal route

Simone la Terra no O2:
2007 - Broad Peak
2008 - Gasherbrum II
2009 - Cho Oyo
2011 - Manaslu

Expedition links

Paweł Michalski's website (Dhaulagiri)

Paweł Michalski on Facebook (Dhaulagiri)

Simone la Terra's website

Simone la Terra on Facebook

Polish on FB

Polish winter climbing news

Juanjo Garra's blog (Dhaulagiri)

Juanjo Garra on Facebook (Dhaulagiri)

Manuel Gonzalezdiaz Lolo (Dhaulagiri) on Facebook

French team website (Dhaulagiri)

French Dhaulagiri on Facebook


Heads-up: Polish for Makalu and another Daula climb

Heads up: 2013 Polish Dhaulagiri climb

ExplorersWeb Expedition List


The path to Camp 1 full of visible and snow-covered crevasses.
Image by Agnieszka Bielecka courtesy Polish Winter Himalayan Mountaineering 2010-2015, SOURCE
Polish Camp 1.
Image by Robert Cholewa courtesy Polish Winter Himalayan Mountaineering 2010-2015, SOURCE

Image by Piotr Tomala courtesy Polish Winter Himalayan Mountaineering 2010-2015, SOURCE
Base Camp as seen by Pawel and Simone.
courtesy Simone la Terra, SOURCE
All-polish team at Base Camp.
Image by Darek Załuski courtesy Polish Winter Himalayan Mountaineering 2010-2015, SOURCE
Dhaula topo by French team.
courtesy French Dhaulagiri 2013, SOURCE

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