Everything is ready now. But it has been a big effort to get to the base of the rocky pillar! It took 3 days from Base Camp to touch the rocky sections of the Compressor route, reported Simone.
Deep snow, 2 camps, cold and extremely heavy packs - over 40 kg each! It was as big as a Himalayan effort, and we were only at 1500-2000m over sea level. Luckily Joby and Alessandro helped us during the first day on the glacier. Afterwards Camos and I did all the carrying.
Looking for a crevasse
After reaching 2450m, we came back down to BC for 3 4 days of rest. Clouds from the Southern Patagonia Ice Cap were approaching us and we were tired and worried because we didnt find the crevasse where we would establish camp."
"This is the only problem that remains unsolved to us and in the next days I will contact some friends asking to indicate the exact location of the crevasse on a picture... Joby Ogwyn has been filming our climb from a plane.
The weather remained good for 4 days - enough to complete the full climb in the normal season, but not in the present conditions of deep snow, and being only two climbers.
The plan: Go up as fast as possible
Now we have all the gear in a cache at the base of the pillar, plus 3 ropes on the most vertical sections before the gear cache.
After we get some rest, we will start at midnight, all the way to the cache at 2450m. We will use a shovel to look for the bivouac/crevasse - I hope we will find it, we must find it! The following morning we will set off for the rocky sections of the Compressor route as fast as we can. I hope the weather remains as good as its been for the last four days.
Simone Moro and Bruno Camos are climbing Cerro Torre (Patagonia) in winter through Maestris Compressor route. American Joby Ogwyn will film the climb. Last year Simone and Camos along with Kazakh Denis Urubko, opened a new route on the North face of Baruntse, reaching the Khali Himal (Baruntse North summit).
Simone Moro, 37, has summited Mount Everest (twice), Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, Shisha Pangma (winter), Lhotse (twice) and 5 peaks over 7000 meters. He has accomplished the first winter climb of Marble Wall 6400m (Tien Shan), a 24-hour climb on Fitz Roys West Face (Patagonia), and many other climbs around the world. Simone and Piotr Morawski summited Shisha Pangma Friday January 14, 2005 at 1:15 pm (local) after a fast 5 hour climb in very strong winds. It was the first (real) winter ascent on a 8000er since 1988, and the first winter climb on Shisha Pangma.
Patagonia is located in the southern end of South America, territory of Argentina and Chile, stretching South to the island of Tierra del Fuego and up to the South of the river Colorado between the Andes and the Atlantic Ocean. One of Patagonias most outstanding peaks is Cerro Torre (Mount Tower).
Maestris compressor route was actually climbed during the winter of 1970. Out of supplies, exhausted and frostbitten, the team abandoned 400m shy from the summit. The climbers would return some months later, in summer, to complete the task, but never got any media or fame. Maestris idea of hauling a 70 kg air compressor was heavily criticized by contemporary climbers. However, it was a bold attempt, a long struggle in very tough conditions, and a remarkable climb.
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