Nanga Parbat: Steve House and Vince Anderson open a new route on the Rupal face

Posted: Sep 12, 2005 03:37 pm EDT

Steve House and Vince Anderson have pioneered a new route on Nanga Parbat's Rupal face, according to sponsor Grivel (on their website). Six days up and two days to descend, pure alpine style. Very difficult to recover during the effort and the summit day lasted 24 hours, was reported on the website in an update dated September 8th.

The pair is in base camp recovering before starting the long trip back to civilization, said the website. Details are yet expected on the new route, such as images and the climbers report. <cutoff>

<b>No word until now</b>

Some teams in Pakistan during the past months have mentioned the Americans being on Nanga Parbat, but no dispatch or report was published on them. In fact, the latest news from Steve House was published in mid-June, after he climbed a new route on Cayesh, Peruvian Andes, along with Marko Prezejl.

After a previous attempt on the new route in 2004 - along with Bruce Miller - Steve confirmed his plans to return to Nangas Rupal face this summer in an interview with ExplorersWeb. Steve had applied for and obtained a Mugs Stump grant to attempt the new route on Nanga's 'toughest face' again this summer (the award named Marko as Steves climbing mate for the project though).

<b>Waiting for details</b>

However, it is unclear when Steve and his new partner, Vince, arrived in Nangas BC, and if they witnessed Tomaz Humars rescue, or the Koreans repetition on the Messner route.

Also, it is not known if the route climbed was the same line previously attempted in 2004. Back then, after four days of climbing they turned back from a height of over 7500m. The pair spent the next day rappelling and down-climbing the Messner route.

<b>Learned from their mistakes</b>

Looking back I see we made several mistakes. We were in a tough situation because we got a good weather forecast just one day after arriving in Base Camp, House told ExplorersWeb on his previous 2004 attempt. We had to go, but we were not well rested and had been only to 6,900 meters three weeks before. On such a demanding route, you are not allowed any errors. According to these thoughts, Steve and Vince could have likely planned a longer expedition on the wall.

<i>Steve House started climbing near his home in Oregon, but he earned a 'masters degree' in Europe. One year as an exchange student in Slovenia left a deep impact on him: Steve came back climbing faster, bolder and lighter.

A Mountain Guide certified by the Swiss UIAGM confirms the 'old continent' influence on Steve. But Steve found great playgrounds back home in the US, as well as many supporters of the pure alpine style hes sworn loyalty to.

Steve has opened new routes on several peaks in Canada and Alaska, but has also guided clients to the summit of Denali over 70 times. In 2003 he amazed the climbing community in the Karakorum Range, where he returned in 2004 and will go back again this summer. Steve has accomplished some impressive first ascents, as well as new routes on 6000-7000 meters peaks, many of them solo wall speed climbs. He completes all his climbs in pure alpine style, or he simply turns back.

One of his 2004 Pakistan climbs got him nominated for the prestigious Piolet dOr award: A solo speed climb on K7, in super-light style (his backpack weighed just 4 kg). During that trip, Steve would also attempt a new route on Nanga Parbat's rupal face, a bold line between the Messner and Polish routes. Along with Bruce Miller, they reached 7500m before turning around due to health problems.

As for the Piolet d'Or, Steve was awarded by the public attending the ceremony, but the award finally went to the Russian team who completed the first climb on Jannu North face, in expedition style.

Steve obtained a Mugs Stump grant to attempt a new route in alpine Style on Nanga's Rupal face. These grants oblige the climbers to attempt the proposed goals within a year of being awarded the funds.

Born in Colorado, Vince Anderson is an accomplished sport rock and ice climber. In 2002 he competed in the Ice Climbing World Cup events held in Russia, Italy, Austria, Switzerland, and Quebec. Working as a guide, he's brought clients to the summits of Shishapangma, and several peaks in the US. He has guided Mounts Robson and Assiniboine, several 5000 to 6000-meter summits in Bolivia's Cordillera Real, as well as major summits of the Western Alps. Hes competed on the freestyle skiing circuit, spent two seasons as a ski guide in Valdez, and skied from over 7000m on Shishapangma.

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#Mountaineering #feature







Steve attempted the Rupal Wall already in 2004. The attempt failed at 7500 m, but another Pakistan climb that year got him nominated for the prestigious Piolet dOr: A solo speed climb on K7 in super-light style (his backpack weighed just 4 kg). Image courtesy of Steve House.
After a previous attempt in 2004, Steve obtained a Mugs Stump grant to give Nanga Parbat's Rupal face a second try. The line in red shows the route climbed by Steve and Bruce Miller on the first attempt. It is not confirmed if this year's clmib has followed the same route. Image courtesy of Grivel North America (click to enlarge).