Fall 2014: Summit-Bids on Makalu

Posted: Oct 20, 2014 11:45 am EDT

(By Raheel Adnan) The winds recede and there appears to be a summit window on Makalu around the mid of this week. The teams have already launched the summit attempts; British tri-services team on Southeast Ridge and Madison Mountaineering team via normal route. However, it appears that bad snow conditions forced normal route climbers to retreat. British climbers are all set for a final push in next couple of days.


Southeast Ridge


The Sherpa and climbers of British tri-services team left BC on Oct 16th and are currently in C3. They had to reinstall C1 as the tents collapsed during bad weather. In a minor accident between C1 and C2, one of the Sherpa sustained a knee injury. He had to be assisted down to BC.

The team spent a night in C2 (6700m) during previous rotation. Their plan is to establish C3 and C4, and push forward to the summit. The home-team of the expedition shared following summit-push plan.

“Expectations are running high now, with Camp 3 established and a window of good weather with light summit winds forecast on the 22nd and 23rd. Colin, Dick and two Sherpa will push on “Alpine style” to camp four, beyond the crux of the Gendarmes, with a summit bid planned during the good weather window predicted. Chris and Gav plus two Sherpa will be in support close behind. The rest of the team will be strategically placed in support on the mountain.”


Normal Route


Garrett Madison, Vibeke Sefland and Lhakpa Sherpa started the summit attempt via normal route and were last 'tracked' near C1 on Oct 19th. However, as per recent dispatch from British team, it appears that the team was forced to retreat. 

“News is that on the North side of Makalu, avalanche conditions have caused teams to retreat back to Base Camp with little likelihood of summiting from that side.”



Based in Lahore, Pakistan, mountaineering enthusiast Raheel Adnan is a reporter for Explorersweb's mountaineering sections. He shares regular updates onTwitter and runs his own blog at AltitudePakistan posting initiated climbing news from Himalaya and Karakoram.



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The Sherpa and climbers of British tri-services team left BC on Oct 16th and are currently in C3. Image shows climbers progress on the mountain.
courtesy Tim Taylor, SOURCE