Paiju Peak: Inurrategi, Vallejo and Zabalza on technical Big Wall

Posted: Jul 23, 2014 09:11 am EDT

 

(By Correne Coetzer) "All measured. All calculated. Meticulous work, effort and patience,” are some of the words the three Spaniards describe ascending the 1000m Big Wall on Paiju South Peak. Moving upwards 20 meters an hour, Mikel Zabalza described it as some of the frightening/ugliest climbing in his life.

 

Alberto Inurrategi, Juan Vallejo and Mikel Zabalza are currently at Camp 3, between 5,700 and 5,800m (“due to changes in barometric pressure the altimeter gives variations that reach 150 meters at one point.”) The ropes and hammocks were fixed up to 5500 m during their previous rotation.

 

The three climbers and their cameraman, David Maeztu, have left BC (3,400m) on July 19 with their remaining gear for the summit attempt. They carried on to Camp 2, 5,500m on the Big Wall and reported lots of ice during the climb, which were strenuous, technically difficult and unstable.

 

This is alpine climbing in the Karakoram with very technical climbing, looking for cracks and rock tips that allow them to climb up the vertical wall to the last 600 m of ice, rock and snow leading to the mountain top of Paiju Peak. They hang on their ropes for hours, thousands of feet above the ground, "relaying only the metal nails, whose safety depends on your skill to fit them,” they say.

 

"Scaling down to sleep, scale back the next day and so on gaining yards in the wall to find a point to move the camp. Remove everything, carry it up the wall and back to mount, to ensure all the material so that nothing falls into the vacuum."

 

Inurrategi, Vallejo and Zabala plan to reach the end of the pillar tomorrow and Friday. Cameraman Maetztu is back to BC to recharge batteries. Starting on the 19th they expect to be at the top (6,610m) and back in 12 days.

 

Watch their video reports here.

 

 

WOPeak Expedition, with Basque/Spanish mountaineers, Alberto Iñurrategi, Juan Vallejo and Mikel Zabalza, is on a mission to climb three peaks consecutively, Paiju Peak (BC at 3,400 m, South Wall and summit at 6,610 m), the Jannu and Cho Oyu in the Karakoram and the Himalayas; climbing new routes or routes almost never repeated. 

 

David Maeztu is the cameraman on the 2014 WOPeak Expedition.

 

Since 2009, when Alberto Iñurrategi, Juan Vallejo and Mikel Zabalza ascended Makalu in alpine style, the trio is inseparable. Among their expeditions: Everest Hornbein, Broad Peak, Greenland (kite-ski), Antarctica (kite-ski crossing) and Nuptse.

 

 

Previous/Related:

 

Paiju Peak update: Vertical wall in poor condition - updated

 

Broad Peak: The Summit-Bid Updates | Update-2

 

K2 Heads Up - Summit Push is ON

 

Towards Summit on Broad Peak, K2 and GII

 

Exweb Interview with Samuli Mansikka | "We might see many summits this year on K2, or then not. This is the magic of K2."

 

All Set for Summit Push on K2 and Broad Peak

 

Another Summit Attempt on Broad Peak, Struggle Continues on K2 (Updated)

 

Broad Peak: Summit Push Time

 

ExWeb interview with K2 summiteer, Fabrice Imparato

 

Summer 2014: Acclimatization and Setting up Higher Camps

 

K2 Base Camp, Broad Peak C1 and Political Unrest

 

K2 2014: Adrian Hayes talks to ExWeb from Pakistan

 

ACP list of 2014 Summer Karakoram climbing expeditions

 

An Eight-Thousander for Acclimatization, BC Trek and Change in Rules

 

K2's 60th Anniversary, Nanga Parbat in Solitude and 4 Gasherbrums

 

WOPeak Website 

WOPeak on Facebook

WOPeak Twitter

WOPeak on YouTube 

WOPeak on Vimeo

BAT Basque team on Facebook

 

 

#mountaineering #Inurrategi #Vallejo #Zabalza #paijupeak

 

 

 

 

 

"All measured. All calculated. Meticulous work, effort and patience.”
courtesy WO Peak Expedition 2014, SOURCE
Alberto Inurrategi, Juan Vallejo and Mikel Zabala second time in Camp 1.
courtesy WO Peak Expedition 2014 / David Maeztu , SOURCE
Inurrategi, Vallejo and Zabalza have installed Camp 2 at 5,500 m last week.
courtesy WO Peak Expedition, SOURCE
Camp 1 on Paiju Peak South 2014.
courtesy WO Peak Expedition 2014 / David Maeztu , SOURCE
Inurrategi, Vallejo and Zabala walking on their way from C1 to C2.
courtesy WOPeak Expedition 2014 / David Maeztu , SOURCE
Mix of snow and rock.
courtesy WO Peak Expedition, SOURCE
Roped on near vertical snow.
courtesy WO Peak Expedition 2014, SOURCE
Fixing the ropes on the first 500 meters on the vertical wall.
courtesy WO Peak Expedition 2014, SOURCE
Rock and ice on route to 5500m
courtesy WO Peak Expedition 2014, SOURCE
Frightening technical vertical climbing to Camp 3, 5,800m. (click to enlarge)
courtesy WOPeak Expedition 2014 / David Maeztu , SOURCE