Summarizing the Spring 2014

Posted: Jun 06, 2014 07:12 pm EDT

(By Raheel Adnan) The Spring 2014 climbing season is over now. It’s the season that will primarily be remembered for the catastrophic avalanche on Everest, Sherpa strike, the bureaucratic failure to handle the proceedings after the accident and the cancellation of all South side expeditions. Nonetheless, there have also been exciting stories beyond Everest.

 


The Accident


On April 18th, when majority of Everest climbers were about to begin their acclimatization rotations, a huge serac from Everest’s West Shoulder broke off and triggered a massif avalanche. 16 Sherpa died and several others were injured. British mountaineer Mark Horrell was about to enter Ice Fall for the first time when avalanche came down. His eyewitness account of the accident can be read here. This photographic illustration further helps in understanding the cause of avalanche.

 

 

‘Bureaucracy’ at its Best


The avalanche incident was a natural disaster for which no one can be blamed. Climbers, Sherpa and everyone else were equally touched by the loss of precious lives. However, some rebellious personnel hijacked it for political reasons and personal gains. Despite a series of announcements to regulate Everest BC, the Nepalese officials failed to neutralize the situation. Mark Horrell masterly summed up the details in his posts “A mountain of deceit: introducing Nepal’s Ministry of Tourism” and “The Everest Base Camp summit meeting: an eyewitness account”.



The Helicopters


After negotiations with militant elements failed and Nepalese officials couldn’t guarantee the safety of climbers and Sherpa community, everyone packed their baggage and returned home. All the Everest South side expeditions concluded without any climbing.

However, two ladies Chinese Jing Wang and American Cleo Weidlich decided to bypass the unfixed Ice Fall, by flying to C2. Wang reportedly summited Everest on May 23rd, whereas Cleo didn’t go for Lhotse summit. The flights to C2 resulted in debate whether such summits should be acknowledged or not. Interestingly, Wang claims that she never used a helicopter to bypass Ice Fall. However, the Italian pilot Maurizio Folini has previously told montagna.tv that he took both ladies and their support staff to C2.



The Inaccessible


Lhotse, Annapurna and Manaslu remained unclimbed this season. While bad weather and excessive snow prevented Annapurna and Manaslu climbers to reach the top, Lhotse expeditions were cancelled after Everest avalanche incident.

 

 

No New Routes


The meteorological and mountain conditions were not favorable for the new route attempts, this year. On Kangchenjunga, strong Russian-Polish-Spanish team decided not to attempt new route in the middle of Northwest Face in alpine style. The ice towers on the face were in very dangerous condition. “The two serac barriers spit virtually every day,” exclaimed Alex Txikon.

During first phase of expedition, the team worked on British 1979 route and made an attempt to reach the summit. Adam Bielecki and Alex Txikon retreated a couple of hundred meters short of summit on May 18th; Denis Urubko topped, next day.

On Everest, Peter Hamor and Horia Colibasanu wanted to attempt a new route and Ralf Dujmovits intended to repeat the Messner’s solo ascent line. But the bad conditions forced them to switch to normal route. Unfortunately, none of the three made it to the top.



Age Record on Kangchenjunga


On May 18th, 75 year old Carlos Soria reached the summit of Kangchenjuna, becoming the oldest person to climb the third highest mountain. It was also his 11th eight-thousander.

 

 

Summits Summary


Due to change in weather pattern, the summit windows on eight-thousanders were few and far between, this season. First summits on Everest were extraordinarily late. Nonetheless, by the end of the season, more than one hundred climbers topped the highest peak on earth; all using supplemental oxygen. High wind, snow and generic bad conditions forced the no O2 climbers to turn back before reaching the top.

Apparently, Shishapangma’s main summit witnessed eight summits, this season; half of them from North side and others from South. At least ten climbers reached Dhaulagiri summit. More than 30 summits are reported on Cho Oyu.

Despite difficult conditions, around 50 climbers made it to Makalu’s top; majority of them using bottled oxygen. It appears that only Fred Roux, Mike Horn and Florian Hubschenberger could reach the summit without supplemental oxygen. They were the first to summit Makalu, this year.

On Kangchenjunga, there were more than 25 summits, this season; many of them without use of supplemental oxygen.

 

 

Based in Lahore, Pakistan, telecom engineer and mountaineering enthusiast Raheel Adnan is a reporter for Explorersweb's mountaineering sections. He shares regular updates on Twitter and runs his own blog at Altitude Pakistan posting initiated climbing news from Himalaya and Karakoram.

 

 

Previous:

Everest Summits and Success on Makalu and Cho Oyu

 

 

 

SUMMITs’ weekend: Success on Kangchenjunga, Makalu, Dhaulagiri and Cho Oyu

 

Summit Attempts Continue on Makalu, Kangchenjunga, Cho Oyu

 

 

From Kangchenjunga to Manaslu: Summit Pushes Everywhere

 

Everest south side update: two women on the mountain

 

Spring 2014 | Eight-thousanders Update

 

Everest update: lonely on the South, North side ready

 

Yannick Gagneret lost on Makalu

 

Snow Leopard lost on Ama Dablam, Himalaya success for Ukraine

 

Shisha Summit! Hamor, Horia and Ionescu grab first top this season

 

Expedition List

 

#Mountaineering

Mark Horrell captured the photo of catastrophic avalanche that killed 16 Sherpa on April 18th.
courtesy Mark Horrell, SOURCE
On May 18th, 75 year old Carlos Soria reached the summit of Kangchenjuna, becoming the oldest person to climb the third highest mountain. Photo of Soria at BC, before summit push.
courtesy BBVA Expedition, SOURCE
"On 24 April a delegation of government officials flew into Everest Base Camp by helicopter to meet with Sherpas who had issued a number of demands following a fatal avalanche on 18 April. Afterwards the government issued a press release about the meeting that was misleading in a number of ways, and contradicted the outcome concluded by those of us who attended."
courtesy Mark Horrell, SOURCE