Winter 2015: K2 Permit Issues, Three Teams Ready For Nanga Parbat

Posted: Dec 18, 2014 09:22 am EST

(By Raheel Adnan) Months after physical, mental and financial preparations for an endeavour like attempting K2 via new route in winter, you suddenly receive an email, right before departure, that your climbing permit has been withdrawn. It does happen if you are climbing in China. On the other hand, three teams are ready for winter Nanga Parbat; there were no expeditions to the mountain during summer climbing season.

K2 Permit Retracted

 

"Dear Mr. Denis, after conferring with friends we decided to cancel permit your team to climb K2. Good luck! I hope we will see us for a cup of tea! All the best! With warm greetings from Xinjiang... etc. etc. Sincerely Yours Mr. Lee," Denis Urubko was stunned by the latest development. The team coordinated with relevant authorities to get the matter sorted out.


From latest update, it appears that permit has been issued, but with a delay of two weeks. Adam Bielecki wrote on Facebook today, "I should get upset but all in all I am glad :-) Due to the Chinese bureaucracy, the start of trip is delayed by approximately 2 weeks. So, the holidays with my family:-)"

 

Tomek Mackiewicz 


Tomek Mackiewicz has been in Rupal valley since past few weeks. He has acclimatized to over 5000m on different mountains. Although, the acclimatization is not sufficient for an alpine style attempt on Nanga Parbat, he should be able to progress swiftly on the Diamir face.

It appears that Tomek has two route options in his mind. a) Messner 1978 route. b) Route to the left of Kinshofer, which was first attempted by Messner and Hanspeter in 2000. He shall be reaching Diamir BC by next week.

Daniele and Elisabeth


Elisabeth Revol is expected to reach Pakistan by Dec 20th, whereas Daniele Nardi will be arriving a week later. He will be accompanied by Roberto Delle Monache (mountaineer and videographer) and Federico Santini (videographer). Daniele will attempt Mumery Rib for third time.

Russian Team


A strong team of Russians Nickolay Totmjanin, Valery Shamalo, Serguey Kondrashkin and Victor Koval will be leaving for Pakistan on December 22nd. Precise information about climbing route is not available yet.

Iranian Expedition


Third Nanga Parbat expedition consists of three climbers Reza Bahadorani, Iraj Maani and Mahmoud Hashemi from Iran. The trio will be arriving in Pakistan at around second week of January. They will be climbing on Diamir side, although route is not confirmed.

 

Based in Pakistan, mountaineering enthusiast Raheel Adnan is a reporter for Explorersweb's mountaineering sections. He shares regular updates on Twitter and runs his own blog at Altitude Pakistan posting initiated climbing news from Himalaya and Karakoram.

 

Previous/Related:

ExWeb Special: 2015 Everest and Himalaya Technology

 

ExWeb Special: 2015 Everest and Himalaya Mountaineers Tech

 

ExWeb interview with Simone Moro, "I'm going again"

 

Winter 2015: Tomek Mackiewicz Begins Acclimatization

 

K2 Winter Special: ExWeb Interview with Denis Urubko

 

History of Winter Climbing Nanga Parbat

 

History of Winter Climbing K2

 

Winter 2014/15: Preparations Underway for Exciting Ventures

 

K2 Winter: New Route and Two More Russians

 

Veteran trio to attempt K2 North Face

 

#Mountaineering

 

"We take part in the competition. Two teams. One team : three climbers, small funds. Our opponents: the weather, the Chinese bureaucracy, problems at every step of preparation for the expedition," says Denis Urubko
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Tomek's route options on Nanga Parbat
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