Pakistan wrap-up: Hamor & Morawski summit Gasherbrum II GIII next!

Posted: Jul 07, 2008 04:37 pm EDT

( This morning the "dos Pedros" bagged G2, the second milestone in their ambitious Gasherbrum traverse. Currently holding in a blizzard at 7,400 meters, they plan for GIII as soon as conditions improve.

Meanwhile, the French K2 west face team have reportedly summited Broad Peak, and a Spanish team topped out GII yesterday as well. K2 climbers have aborted their pushes but the game is far from over.

Gasherbrum II: Second G down for the Peters - Egocheaga back on top! G4 - summit push soon

Peter Hamor and Piotr Morawski reached the summit of Gasherbrum II, in alpine style, on July 6th, 2008 at 9.15 am local time, Peters wife Maria reported. They got there at the same time as the blizzard....The climbers are currently back in Camp 4 (7 400m), where they've decided to wait. In case the weather gets better, they will try G III.

And there's some good news also from the late Inaki Ochoa's close friend:

"Spaniards Rafael Belderrain, Jorge Egocheaga and Martin Ramos reached the summit of GII on Sunday morning," their home team told ExplorersWeb earlier today. "they were delayed on descent due to loads of snow and had to spend the night in C3. Today they are expected back in BC."

Jorge Egocheaga, one of Iñaki Ochoa's best friends and regular climbing partner, was frostbitten last year while descending from Dhaulagiri's summit - together with Ochoa and in very bad conditions.

Spaniards Jose Carlos Tamayo and Juan Vallejo are currently attempting GIV. According to fellow-spanish climbers on Broad Peak (whom they visited to celebrate San Fermin's day), they may be ready for a summit push in upcoming days.

After a long spell of bad weather, Amical team members departed towards C2 on July 1, in order to complete their acclimatization before a definitive summit push they needed 8 hours climbing in fresh snow, only to reach C1 though. In addition, porters refused to go up until weather and snow conditions improved. Therefore, all team members returned to BC on the following morning.

When a new forecast announced a longer window over this past weekend; the team set off from BC again on July 3rd, hoping to reach C2 and C3. Once there, they would decide on a summit attempt. A new update is expected soon. Daniela Teixeira and her mate departed BC and reached C1 earlier today.

K2 - and Broad Peak!

We saw headlamps late last night high on Broad Peak, Nick Rice reported from K2's BC. We wonder who these people were and whether they reached the summit, as they were quite close to the couloir at around 11:00pm."

The climbers were the French expedition comprising Yannick, Patrick, and Christian. The French star climbers reportedly went to K2 to have a look at the climbing route, roughly up to 5500m. Then, they went to Broad Peak to acclimatize before their attempt of K2's west face in Alpine style!

They reportedly topped out Broad Peak this weekend, and are currently stuck by the bad weather at 7000 meters. They will now descend as soon as possible, and head back to K2 soon after.

Over on K2's Cesen route, Wilco, Jelle, Gerard and Pemba aborted their summit push after leaving a cache close to C4. The climbers were too exhausted to continue up after overcoming some difficult sections and running out of rope to fix on K2s upper slopes. All members are currently back in BC where they arrived just before the wind picked up again. Now its time to eat, recover, think and make new plans, they stated.

Marco Confortola and Roberto have also returned to BC, after conditions worsened while they were in C2 (they had hoped to reach at least C3).

Nick Rice, Hugues, Qudrat and Karim are in BC as well, planning to join forces with the Serbian expedition, whose members are climbing up the Abruzzi Spur. Since both the Abruzzi Spur and the Cesen route merge on the upper slopes, the climbers hope their ropes may be useful for the Dutchmen as well.

Meanwhile, German Peter Guggemos has joined Rices team. "We expect the weather to remain bad for quite a few more days, so we will probably remain in base camp until the summit weather window begins, Nick Rice reported.

Mike Farris team has set up C1, and hope to establish C2 as well next time they go up.

Broad Peak: New arrivals

Andalucian Rafa Merchan took a fall while crossing a river on Broad Peaks glacier on Saturday. After checking up on him, Rafas mates left him under the care of the Iranian teams doctor and departed towards C1. Merchan hoped to join them today.

After summiting Nanga Parbat, Mario Panzeri and Daniele Nardi have reached Broad Peaks BC at arrival they met Portuguese climber Joao Garcia. Should Joao succeed on BP, it would become his 11th 8000er.

Pakistans lesser peaks: Distaghil Sar

Team leader Bruce Normand updated Bowies website with details about the upcoming summit push on Distaghil Sar, a goal Bruce formed during a previous expedition in the area back in 1999. The peak looks quite different this year and all changes are seemingly for the worse.

Nine years later, the Yazghil glacier is a maze of ice towers and water hewn crevasses from its source to its snout near Shimshal, Bruce reported.

Above it lurks a full blown ice cascade, half white and half black, and the tranquil basin is now teemed with slots all the way to a new 55 degree headwall: our first ten days of the expedition were spent finding a completely new approach to bypass all of this. The former broad ridge is now a new cornice-crevasse tight rope and added to that, it is at least 15-20 meters (50-70 feet) of extra snow would be needed to restore it to its 1999 condition. The graceful snow pyramid of our Whitehorn has turned into more of a steep, savaged, sharks fin.

On our last sortie, Don and I pushed and protected a route along the full length of this ice ridge, being stopped by soft snow beneath a serac guarding the true summit Peak of 6150, Normand added. At the time, Ben and Pete were hauling loads so that Camp 1.5, at the base of the technical difficulties, has been become our center of operations. At this point, two days short of C2, we were betrayed by the weather which delivered the biggest storm we have seen yet. Two days ahead of the forecasts, as July begins, we hope for some of the stable June weather which has yet to materialized to push to C2 and on to terra incognita along the north base to Distaghil Sar.

Links to teams in Pakistan:


French K2 west face expedition

Wilco van Rooijen's Norit K2 expedition
Gerard McDonnell's dispatches
French K2 west face expedition
Mario Merelli
Marco Confortola's updates
Singapore expedition
Cecilie Skog's website
Nick Rice's dispatches
Baltoro Express expedition's website
Dodo Kopold's website
Mike Farris expedition's website
Hugues d'Aubarede

GI, GII, G3 & Broad Peak

Peter Hamor's website
Piotr Morawski's website
Jean-Noel Urban
Pustelnik's Himalayan weblog

Broad Peak, GI & GII

Valeri Babanov

Broad Peak

Badia & Mauricio's website
Joao Garcia's blog
Blair Falahey
Serge Civera's updates
Zerain, Hayas and Gonzalez's team blog
Zerain's double-header
Lina Quesada's blog
Rafael Merchán's updates
Juan Carlos González

Nanga Parbat

Iranian Challengers
Karl Unterkircher's blog
Fabrizio Zangrilli's blog
Panzeri & Nardi's Mountain Freedom


Alex Gavan's website
Roby Piantoni's updates
Marco Astori
Fernando González Rubio
Tunc Findik


Hirotaka's blog
Field Touring's updates
Amical Alpin
Kari Kobler's team


Daniela Teixeira's dispatches

Karakorum's lower peaks & spires

Don Bowie

#Mountaineering #Mountaineering

Live image over contact 4.0 of a climber's shadow on GII's glacier, courtesy of Daniela Teixeira (click to enlarge).
Dutch team climber above C3 on K2's Cesen route. Image courtesy of Norit Expedition's website (click to enlarge).
Bruce Normand, back on Distaghil Sar after nine years. Image courtesy of Don Bowie's website (click to enlarge).
Spanish climbers in Broad Peak's BC, including Juan Vallejo (third from right) and Jose Carlos Tamayo, in a short visit before launching a summit push on GIV. Image courtesy of Rafa Merchán (click to enlarge).

Visit our new website